Domaine Alain Cailbourdin Pouilly-Fume Les Cris 2023 750ml

Alain Cailbourdin started his domaine from scratch in 1980 at Maltaverne, in Pouilly-Fumé, across the Loire from Sancerre. It now covers about 20 hectares, his son Loïc plays a growing role, and the vineyards are certified Terra Vitis.

Les Cris is a single plot named for its pebbly limestone soils, with very thin earth over Portlandian limestone and a southwest exposure that catches the late-afternoon sun. The vines are more than 40 years old. The wine ferments with native yeasts and is raised entirely in stainless steel, with no oak, and it sometimes needs time in bottle before release.

Expect citrus, green apple and gooseberry, a smoky, flinty edge, chalky minerality and a saline finish.

Against Pascal Jolivet Sancerre, Les Cris is a single plot with more smoke and flint; for a mineral Loire white with seafood, choose Cailbourdin.

Drink it now or over the next three to five years, with oysters, scallops or goat cheese.

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