Oliverhill Red Silk Shiraz McLaren Vale 2020 750ml

Oliverhill is a small, family-run winery in McLaren Vale, South Australia, near Onkaparinga Gorge National Park. Founded in 1973 and owned by Linda and Stuart Miller, it makes about 3,000 cases a year of premium reds, according to its US importer.

Red Silk is a McLaren Vale Shiraz made in the house style, which the importer sums up as big, juicy fruit kept in balance. Wine Spectator included the 2020 in its Top 100 of 2024 issue, a notable pick for a bottle at this price.

Wine Spectator's note opens on a charming red with plenty of star anise. For an earlier vintage, the winemaker described black berry and pepper with firm, grainy tannins.

Against Robert Oatley Signature Series Shiraz 2020, Red Silk comes from a boutique family estate making a few thousand cases; for a small-production McLaren Vale Shiraz, choose Red Silk.

Open it half an hour ahead and serve it just below room temperature with grilled lamb, barbecued ribs, pepper-crusted steak or a mushroom burger.

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