Bibi Graetz Colore Toscana 2012 750ml

Bibi Graetz makes wine in Fiesole, above Florence, and calls Colore the top expression of the estate. In the winery's words, "only the best barriques become Colore."

The fruit comes from vines over 70 years old in Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena, on galestro and poor, stony soils, trained as alberello and Guyot. The 2012 is close to equal parts Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino; later vintages moved to Sangiovese alone. Fermentation starts spontaneously in open barriques with six to eight manual punch-downs a day, then the wine ages 20 months. One retailer puts production at about 400 cases.

The winery describes a rich yet fresh red with cedar, berry, tobacco and orange peel, medium body, firm tannins and a concentrated mid-palate. Wine Spectator calls it muscular and concentrated, with a sense of elegance.

Against Antinori Solaia, Colore has more bottle age and leans on native Tuscan grapes; for a mature, old-vine Tuscan collector's bottle, choose Colore.

Stand the bottle upright a day ahead, decant it off any sediment and serve it with bistecca or wild boar.

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