Dopff au Moulin Cremant d'Alsace Cuvee Julien Brut

Dopff au Moulin is a family house in Riquewihr, Alsace, whose family history goes back to 1574. It has been based at Au Moulin, below the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru, since 1925. The family credits Gustave-Julien Dopff with bringing the Champagne method to Alsace, and Pierre Dopff pushed for the Crémant d'Alsace appellation, created in 1976.

It's made from Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois, generally half and half, using free-run juice only. The first fermentation is in stainless steel and the second in the bottle, the traditional method, with 14 to 24 months on the lees before disgorging. It's a Brut, with about 7 g/l of sugar, and 12% alcohol.

Expect yellow plum, apple and quince, white flowers and fine, steady bubbles.

Against L’Arche Perlée Brut Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée Julien is bottle-fermented from the house that pioneered Crémant d'Alsace; for traditional-method bubbles at a fair price, choose Cuvée Julien.

It's a perfect summer aperitif; drink it within a couple of years of purchase. Serve it chilled.

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