Thierry Germain Saumur Mousseux Bulles de Roche 750ml

Thierry Germain came to the Loire from Bordeaux and founded Domaine des Roches Neuves in Varrains, Saumur, in 1992. He was mentored by Charly Foucault of Clos Rougeard, and the domaine is certified biodynamic by Biodyvin.

Bulles de Roche is 90% Chenin Blanc, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines on clay-limestone, a 1.2-hectare plot. The base wine spends 3 months in 228-liter barrels, then 9 months on the lees in bottle. It has zero dosage and is 12.5% alcohol. It's bottled as AOC Saumur Mousseux and carries no vintage.

It's a rich, golden style with honeyed fruit and buttery brioche, a counterpoint to lean zero-dosage sparklers.

Against Henri Champliau Crémant de Bourgogne, Bulles de Roche is Chenin-based with no added dosage; for a rich, biodynamic Loire sparkler, choose Bulles de Roche.

Serve it chilled but not icy so the barrel-aged base can show. It suits roast chicken, creamy cheeses and seafood.

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