La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi Black Label 2022 750ml

La Scolca is run by the Soldati family, now in its fourth generation, in Rovereto di Gavi in Piedmont. Gavi dei Gavi Black Label, Etichetta Nera in Italian, is the estate's trademarked flagship.

It's 100% Cortese from vines more than 60 years old in the high hills of Rovereto Superiore di Gavi, selected cluster by cluster. It's cold-fermented in steel with partial skin contact and kept on its native lees until bottling, with no oak. Wine.com lists the 2022 at 12% alcohol.

The producer describes a pale straw color with green hues and a bouquet that moves from fruity to floral, with a broad, savory palate of flint and citrus and an almond-walnut finish.

Against Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi, the Black Label is La Scolca's old-vine, lees-aged flagship; for a Gavi to cellar or to open with seafood, choose the Black Label.

The producer says it keeps its character well beyond five years, developing flint, almond and hazelnut. Serve it at about 12°C with fish, shellfish, oysters, crab and white meats.

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