Louis Roederer Brut Nature Philippe Starck 2012 750ml

Roederer's Brut Nature was designed with Philippe Starck, and it's a Champagne with no added sugar at all. The grapes come from a single village, Cumières, where Roederer farms about 10 hectares biodynamically.

The 2012 is 55% Pinot Noir, 25% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay from three parcels made together. It spent six years on the lees, and because there's no dosage, what you taste is the ripeness of the year.

The importer describes ripe stone fruit, candied citrus, hazelnut, baked apple and tarte tatin, a juicy, textured palate with saline freshness and a slight bitter edge, and a clean, pure finish.

Against Cristal 2014, this is the more vinous, zero-dosage choice at a fraction of the price; for oysters, buy the Brut Nature.

Serve it around 10°C with oysters, raw fish or sushi. It needs no sweetness to balance it.

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