Taittinger Brut La Francaise Champagne 750ml

Taittinger's house Brut is sold in the US as Brut La Française and elsewhere as Brut Réserve. It's the same wine, and it stands out because Chardonnay is the largest grape, which is unusual for a big house's non-vintage.

The blend is 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Meunier from more than 40 crus, with about 30% reserve wine. Grapes are hand-picked and pressed in the vineyards, the juice is fermented cool, and the wine ages three to four years in the cellars, more than double the legal minimum. The dosage is 9 grams per liter.

Taittinger describes acacia, honey and hawthorn opening to peach, mirabelle and vanilla, then brioche and honey on the palate and a finish of toasted almonds.

Because it's Chardonnay-led, it's lighter than Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label; for oysters or an aperitif, buy the Taittinger.

The house pairs it with devilled eggs, burrata and tomato, Mimolette or figs, and says it will keep five years or more.

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