Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier Premier Cru Brut 750ml

Vilmart has bottled its own Champagne in Rilly-la-Montagne since 1890, and Grand Cellier is the cuvée that shows its oak-aged house style.

Laurent Champs, the fifth generation, has run the estate since 1989. He farms about 11 hectares in the Montagne de Reims, belongs to the sustainable growers' group Ampelos, and has used no herbicides or chemical fertilizers since he took over.

Grand Cellier is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from Premier Cru vineyards in Rilly, usually a blend of three vintages. The base wines ferment and age in large oak foudres and skip malolactic fermentation, which keeps them brisk.

Look for yellow apple, pear, nectarine, baking spice and fresh ginger, then crushed stone, a wisp of smoke and firm acidity.

If you like Pinot Noir weight, go for Marc Hébrart Mes Favorites. Buy Grand Cellier when you want Chardonnay finesse with a touch of oak.

Serve it at 7–8°C (45°F) in a white wine or Burgundy glass. It also keeps well for several years in a cool cellar.

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